The fire was roaring, the food was delicious and the raki was . . . well, the raki was raki.

What better way to idle away a wintry Sunday afternoon in Hersonissos?

It was our first visit to Hersonissos’ latest version of home-style hospitality, the new Ta Filarakia Taverna, at 22 Eleftherias, across the road from Pet Planet.

The taverna is the brainchild of two partners, Manos Kavvalos and Manos Kokarakis, who also own the popular seasonal pub, Friendz, which is Ta Filarakia in English (sort of), on the beach road.

Ta Filarakia partners Manos Kavvalos (left) and Manos Kokarakis

“We were looking for something special to do in the winter,” Mr. Kavvalos said. “And since there was an excellent Cretan chef in the family,” he added with a mischievous grin, “we decided on this taverna.”

The “excellent Cretan chef” is Mr. Kavvalos’ mother, Dora, who, in addition to a lifetime of home cooking credits, she has years of experience as a chef in local tavernas. While Dora cooks up her treasured traditional recipes, Mr. Kokarakis handles the grilling duties.

Like the name implies, Ta Filarakia, is a warm place with a friendly atmosphere. Inside, there are seven tables situated around a large stone fireplace. The walls are adorned with old photographs of Iraklion and its people, which add to the homeliness of the taverna.

Chef Dora Kavvalos

Even with the abundance of atmosphere, it’s the food that takes center stage at Ta Filarakia. In addition to the regular favourites served daily, Dora varies her specials menu according to the day’s market – and her creative mood.

On this particular Sunday, we were treated to yummy peppers stuffed with bacon and cheese; meatballs in a fragrant tomato sauce; pea shoot salad with balsamic vinegar; spicy cheese spread; aubergine croquettes; zucchini balls; boiled goat and fava.

After the meal, as is Ta Filarakia’s tradition, complementary raki was served with an assortment of fig, cherry and apricot preserves and three types of cake: syrup, carrot-coconut and walnut.  

Throughout the feast bluesy rembetika music added to the overall ambiance of the afternoon.

Currently, Ta Filarakia is open every evening and all day Sunday, but it is not just a winter taverna. Come the spring, the two Manoses will open the spacious outside terrace, with an additional five tables – making it possible to visit our filarakia all year round.