While not quite as old as the Minoan Megaron located directly across the street, the villa housing To Kima Taverna goes back many years and offers a bit of its own history.

“It’s the oldest house in the entire area, and has been in our family for more than 150 years,” said Niki Papathaki, who, together with her husband Yiorgo Fantaoutsaki, operates the taverna on Kokkini Hani’s main road. “Plus, it was the only home around here to survive the devastating earthquake of 1923, so we know it was built to last.”

Niki, originally from Rethymnon, is an accomplished artist, working mostly in oils and icons, and Yiorgos, from Kato Vathia, is an officer with Τ.Α.Ξ.Υ., the health insurance company for hotel workers.

“Both of us always had an interest in cooking,” Niki said, politely ignoring the question of who of the two is the better chef. “When we had an opportunity to purchase this property from the first cousin of my father-in-law, we knew it would make a beautiful seaside taverna, so we made the move me meraki (with gusto and a loving feeling).”

Since the taverna is situated on a small rise directly on the sea, they decided on the name To Kima (The Wave), and that “gusto” became evident from the moment they opened their doors in February of 2001, with a traditional menu highlighted with a wide selection of fresh fish.

“The secret to preparing excellent fish is twofold,” Niki explained. “First it must be fresh, and second it must be cooked, whether steamed, fried, baked or grilled, just right. An overcooked fish is dry and tasteless.”

Niki and Yiorgos are very particular when purchasing their fresh fish, which is usually a daily event.

“We buy most of our fish from the boats in Hersonissos,” Niki said, “but, if they don’t have a specific type on certain days, then we go to Iraklion.  Usually between the two fishing fleets, we can get what we need.”

And, what is it that they need?

“Well, the most popular are Red Mullet and Sea Bream, but we always try to have a selection of other fish and seafood, too, such as Sardines, Whitebait, Red Porgy, lobster, shrimps, squid and octopus,” Niki explained, rattling off the names of some of this reporter’s favourite dishes. “Of course, in addition to the seafood, we have a full menu of traditional dishes and grilled meats.”

Looking at To Kima now, it’s easy to picture the palatial villa which served as home to the

Fantaoutsakis family for so many decades – the front of the building faces the main road and the back descends a level to open on an expanse of sandy beach. With a sea view from almost any angle, the taverna is open all year – with beachside service available in the summer.

With a schedule like that, you would think Niki and Yiorgos wouldn’t have time for anything else.“

I still paint,” Niki said, pointing to one of several oils adorning the walls of To Kima’s main dining room, which is built around a large stone fireplace. “It’s my first love since, I was a young girl, taking art lessons in Rethymnon. But cooking is similar to painting, in as much as they are both creative outlets – things we do for the enjoyment of others.”

And Yiorgos, when he’s not at the taverna, can be found, until he retires in two years, at the Τ.Α.Ξ.Υ. office in Hersonissos.

Meanwhile, Niki and Yiorgos will continue doing what they do best . . . serving up grilled fish – and life – me meraki.