Those of us who reside in our four townships are quite used to beautiful beaches, excellent tavernas and, when needed, fine accommodations. However, by this time of year we may have had our fill of the thousands of visitors crowding our “spaces.”

A week on the south side of the island may be just the ticket for a relaxing change of pace on basically an economical budget – if you don’t dine on fresh bream and snapper at 40 to 60 euros a kilo every day.

You’ll find everything the north has to offer, but in a simpler fashion, and certainly less crowded – and not too many sunbeds! And, when you return home you’ll truly have the feeling of having “been away” without ever getting on a plane or ferry.

Following are our notes of a one-week tour of the south side.

Monday: Left Gournes early afternoon; decided to dine at favourite Rethymnon Township taverna, the Exantas, before heading south. Stayed the night at the Xidas Garden Hotel in Bali, a family-owned place with nice pool and friendly atmosphere. The 68 euros included comfortable room with TV and buffet breakfast.  At the Exantas, located several kilometers west, had great meal created in Mrs. ­­­Kristalia Psomas’ kitchen, prepared with ingredients from her own livestock and organic farms.

Frangokastello

Tuesday:  Drove south through the exciting Lefka Ori mountain range, and the Imbros Gorge, to Frangokastello; lunched at the Artemis Taverna 50 meters from Libyan Sea . Later, took first swim of the trip with the imposing fort in the background. Continued drive over the Krioneritis mountain range to Kato Rodakino and the secluded Koraka Cove; stayed the night at beachfront Nikos & Anna rent rooms for 40 euros.  Beautiful beach, several free sunbeds, but strong winds (trademark of the south) sent sand swirling and water spraying. Fish dinner okay, but not great.

Agios Pavlos Beach

Wednesday: Headed east to beautiful Agios Pavlos; stayed at Mama Eva’s rent rooms, 35 euros. Several dips at pebbly, but lovely beach with no sun beds. Nice lunch and good fish dinner at Mama’s taverna.

Little Inn, Kokkinos Pirgos

  Thursday: Continuing east (nearing Agia Galini, saddened over acres of olive groves devastated by last year’s fires), arrived in Kokkinos Pirgos, next to Tymbaki, in time for a refreshing mid-day swim at the pool of the Little Inn hotel – 60 euros for a well-appointed pool-side room with cable TV, a shower to die-for, and buffet breakfast. Decided to stay a second day. Lunch at the Kokkinos Pirgos Restaurant, beautiful beach and some free sunbeds, but they were having a fly-swarmed month. Enjoyed great meal, but constantly shooing flies away.  Returned for dinner, but, because of an even worse fly problem, left after one beer. Ended up at Dimitri’s Grill House (a break from fish) and feasted on perfect spit roasted lamb and grilled chicken, served by a lovely girl from FYROM, who was confused and said she was from someplace called Macedonia.  Dimitri provided free sun loungers and umbrellas so for the next day and a half took morning and afternoon swims in the pool and mid-day dips in the sea. Dined again at Dimitri’s; all other places seemed too touristy.

Tsoutsouros

Saturday: Arrived in Tsoutsouros (the week’s top spot)) mid-day and checked into Triton Hotel (60 euros – no breakfast) at tip of sandy cove. (On a drive last winter, discovered this small quiet fishing village, and always remembered the excellent just-caught and perfectly prepared fish for dinner). Now, it was full of life and colour and Greek tourists, but had another great fresh fish dinner at the Yerakina Taverna. Newly built Triton Hotel (still not quite finished), was very comfortable, and, when completed, will have swimming pool, spa and many other features and activities.

Sunday: Upon leaving Tsoutsouros, and after riding for a few kilometers, discovered two-kilometer stretch of beach, with no buildings, at the foot of the mountain side, where the sign just said DERMATAS. Enjoyed swim in solitude in the crystal azure waters, before continuing through Keratokambos (too busy) and on to Arvi. Stayed at seaside Ariadni Hotel (40 euros-no breakfast), with wooden foot-bridge across rocks to sandy beach. Arvi was only place throughout journey where the wind wasn’t up. Hotel was adequate, but smallest room of entire trip and only one with no fridge (by the way, all accommodations – both rent rooms and hotels – were fully air conditioned). Lunch at Kima Taverna included fried skate – tasty and inexpensive. Dinner at the Banietos Taverna, across the road from the village marina, where they had just that day set up a dining area next to the moored boats, a good distance from the actual taverna. Food was not too good, but entertaining . . .  watching waiter trek down the taverna steps, hike across the busy street and make his way through the marina carrying a loaded tray – about 100 meters each way! Whew.

Monday: Headed back to the northern coast through the Dikti mountain range and, for a “last meal” before reality of arriving home, stopped off at the Vienna Kafenion in Ano Viannos. Enjoyed some delicious Cretan fare from proprietor Mr. Menios; discovered that the establishment’s name, “Vienna,” came to be because the village, Viannos, was once called Vienna and not because its owner had German roots.

Last leg, down the beautiful northern slope of the mountain, put us on familiar ground, through Kastelli, Hersonissos and home to Gournes.

The week’s holiday, eight days and seven nights,  covered about 700 kilometers – allowing for a couple of wrong turns and some exploration of gravel mountain roads – and cost 826 euros for two people, including petrol, all meals (8 fish dinners), snacks, drinks, supermarket purchases and accommodations.

For a short holiday – or just a quick overnight break – we recommend a visit to our island’s south side. And, since many of the places are open all year, it’s a trip which can be enjoyed anytime – sans swimming.

It’s close, it’s beautiful and it’s economical.