Lemon tree very pretty and the lemon flower is sweet
But the fruit of the poor lemon is impossible to eat.

We’re all familiar with this refrain from the popular Peter, Paul and Mary song, but when it comes to a certain lemon tree in Ano Hersonissos, the words “impossible to eat” never come to mind.

In fact, it’s just the opposite . . . because this lemon tree just happens to be growing in the middle of a spacious, but comfortable taverna off the village square.

Appropriately named Lemonies (lemon trees), this rakotaverna-ouzeri is the creation of George Mantakakis, an Iraklion native and renowned chef who is known throughout Hersonissos for his innovative culinary ideas.

Chef Mantakakis and his lemon tree

What makes Lemonies unique – in addition to the lemon tree centerpiece – is the fact that the taverna is the only place in the area to feature meats prepared by the traditional antikristo method.

“Antikristo means that the cut of meat stands straight up opposite to the heat source, rather than over or under it,” George explained. “This is a traditional way of preparing meat, and done often in villages. They build a fire and place different cuts of meat on skewers around and close to the flame, occasionally turning the pieces. It’s a much slower process, but it’s the only way to get that very special slow-cooked succulent taste.”

Before opening Lemonies two years ago, George, 50, worked as a chef for many years around the area in hotels and tavernas. In 1985, he took over an existing place, the Soraya, on the main drag of Hersonissos.

“I had it for about five years, but I wasn’t really happy,” he said. “It just wasn’t what I really wanted. I knew exactly what I wanted, and I also knew I would have to build it myself.”

In December of 2005, George found a large tract of land near the Ano Hersonissos village square which was available, and he immediately knew this would be the site of his long-planned rakotaverna-ouzeri.

Serving as architect, contractor and labourer, he painstakingly constructed the place of his dreams, and, by February of 2006 – just three months later – Lemonies opened its doors – complete with lemon tree and antikristo.

“Actually, we have three trees in the center of the taverna – one lemon and two orange. But the name Lemonies ke Portokalies would have been too long,” he joked.

With the summer season drawing to a close, George is now making plans for the winter opening. Assisted by his wife, Rothoula (they have three daughters and two grandchildren), Lemonies will be open everyday except Mondays all winter.

“We have a large fireplace, and we’ll be featuring live music nights – light music and Rembetika,” he explained. “And, of course, we’ll still feature our trademark antikristo and many varieties of appetizers.”

Sounds great – now, all George needs is for Petros, Pavlos and Maria to record a new song:

Lemonies very pretty and the lemon flower is sweet
And the food at Lemonies is wonderful to eat