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Like most of the little kids growing up in Kokkini Hani nearly 30 years ago,
Spyros Hatzakis had a sweet tooth for cakes, candy and, of course, ice cream
– even though that frozen treat was not yet widely available on Crete in the
summer, much less all year round.
As he became older, he never lost his passion for sweets and by school age
he was determined that some day he would make the best cakes and ice cream
in Crete.
"After high school, I studied sweets and bread making at the local catering
school, and I haven't stopped studying since," he said during a meeting with
reporters in his newly-renovated Spyridon Patisserie on Kokkini Hani's main
road. "Every year I go to Europe, and especially Italy, to see
what's new in the making of ice cream and sweets, and what new equipment is
available, both in improving manufacturing and providing better service."
Since opening the door of his sweet shop almost seven years ago, Spyros'
name has become synonymous with great ice cream, so we asked him why.
"We make it a point to feature only fresh products like ice cream made
daily," he explained. "In the winter, we keep ice cream for three days, but
in summer it's maximum one and a half days. We try to maintain a quantity
check on all our products, including sweets, and make only what we believe
we will sell in a day. It's because of this quantity check we sometimes run
out of products . . . but it's better than having sweets maturing on the
counters and ice cream going stale in the freezer."
So, what happens to the "old" products?
"Some can be recycled," he said. "For example, chocolate soufflé we keep in
our refrigerator with special chocolate conditions, low temperatures and
practically no air circulating, and if there is anything left after the
"saleable" period, we can recycle it by making a beautiful ice-cream with
chocolate and vanilla soufflé and wild berries inside. Also, we give free
cookie samplers from our three day old supply to customers with their
coffee. Around holidays we always donate excess cookies and cakes to schools
and charities."
Spyros said he always likes to experiment with new ideas in tastes and many
times he gets his cues from the consumer.
"That's why the opinions from our customers are valuable to us," he said.
"We want them to tell us their opinions and not only the good ones! We keep
forms by the cash register and they can write their suggestions."
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And, speaking of customers, here's what some have to say:
"I come from Iraklion
for coffee and ice cream twice a week," said Alexander Di Giosia, while:
"Vangelis Psaros of Gournes said: "For me, I get my ice cream every week."
And Eleni Hristinaki of Iraklion
is "here for sweets every Saturday and Sunday."
And, the list goes on. But, amid all this praise, if you think Spyros is
resting on his laurels, think again.
"We try to have 12 to 24 flavours of ice cream available at all times, and
we're always searching for new taste combinations," he said. "So far, we've
come up with 87 flavours, including one of our most popular, basil-lemon.
The basil for this recipe has been cultivated from Aghio Oros basil and in
the ice cream you can only use the first buds. But for most of the special
ones we only make once or twice a month and some are seasonal recipes
according to availability of fresh fruits."
The same dedication that goes into the production of ice cream also is
applied to all the other sweets at Spyridon.
"I apply the same essence principle to my pastries and sweets," he said.
"For example, I can make a basil crème brulee or a rose panacotta which is
indescribably delicious and a great dessert for weddings and christenings.
Also, when we are asked to make a wedding cake, we like to interview the
happy couple and find out their ideas, what tastes they like, what fruits
and colours they like, and then we make a few different samplers for them to
taste. We like to excite the imagination with original tastes and designs.
Because the desert is the last item to be served at an event, our cakes
should leave a lasting experience."
In addition to his excellent ice cream, sweets and coffees, Spyros insists
that his service must be on the same level.
"We hold customer relations meetings with the kitchen and front serving
staff every week," said Giorgos Haritakis, the shop's general manager. "We
talk about ways to improve service, because good service is not as simple as
putting things on a tray. We see it as an art."
Giorgos, who is a trained customer service professional, supervises the
training of the front staff, while Spyros trains the kitchen staff in
production.
So comes the final question, the one that is inevitable: Many people think,
falsely or not, that Italian ice cream is the best; how does yours compare?
A huge smile spread across Spyros' face. "When I was in Florence at a seminar, I discovered that
Italian ice cream was actually invented in that city by a Cretan! And, when
I go back there, I will search for the documented proof!!
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