The KhroniclesThe Bilingual Community Newspaper |
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'Η Δίγλωσση Τοπική Εφημερίδα ΣαςΤα Χρονικά |
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| ISSUE NO. 41 | SEPTEMBER 2009 | WWW.KO-GO.GR | ||
The KhroniclesA division of Ko-Go ΕπιχειρήσειςBox 332 Publisher:Sofia Klidi Editor:Lou Duro Associate Editors:Tony & Christine Bowes Web Editor John McLaren Contributors/
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In my private business as a landscape gardener, I am developing an area
of land in Gouves to act as a base. Part of the site is a display area and,
to that end, I have been sowing a lawn. And, I am a great advocate of "warm season grasses," or grass that
naturally grows in hot, dry climates and, therefore, do not require as much
water. It is worth noting that many of the cheap seed mixes available are
not really suited for withstanding the heat of a Cretan summer. The most commonly available "warm season" species
is Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon). The wild type is often added to seed
mixes to increase the drought tolerance of the resulting la wn. It is
not, however, a very strong green and this colour often fades even more
during winter. Modern varieties of Bermuda grass have been developed that
are a deeper green in colour, which is retained better during the winter.
Expect to pay a little more for this seed, however. In a previous column I wrote about Seashore
paspalum. Like Bermuda grass, seashore paspalum is a warm season grass which
has been developed for golf courses. It wasn’t available as a seed and was
only available as "sprigs" (small plugs that have to be planted) or as turf.
Despite the cost it has become increasingly popular because it is said to
only require half the water that Bermuda grass does. Unfortunately, shipping
costs put the use of these varieties out of my reach. |
I had access to my land in March so I gave repeat sprays
of glyphosate weed killer to clear the site of weeds (I still anticipate
getting a good crop of weed seedlings however). The land had previously been
roughly ploughed and so I used a tractor-mounted rotavator to further reduce
the surface to a finer tilth and to level the area a little better. Before the seed could be applied, the surface had to be further broken
down and smoothed. This was done with a hand rake. A lot of stones came to
the surface during these cultivations. The larger stones were removed, but
the smaller ones were left to be pushed back into the surface. The whole area was then consolidated evenly by tramping it down with the
heels of my boots (the best way to describe this action is to imagine
impersonating a penguin’s waddle). Next, I applied a fertilizer. The main ingredients of a fertilizer are
nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) and the numbers that you see
on the front of a bag show the ratios of these three main ingredients.
Generally speaking, most turf fertilizers are high in nitrogen because this
is what the plant uses to create strong, green leaves. It is also very
soluble so it dissolves in irrigation or rain water and washes away (a
process called leaching). I, however, did not want to use a high
concentration of nitrogen on a new lawn. It is important to get the roots of
new plants established and this is where the phosphorus and potassium comes
in. I used a formulation of 17-12-17. This I applied evenly at 35grammes per
square metre and again, lightly raked the surface. Next came the seed. This again was evenly spread over the entire surface
at a rate of 10grammes per square metre. Many people would then call that
job finished, but I like to very lightly rake the seed in. This is for two
reasons: first, the seed gets mixed into the surface, some deeper than
others. If for some reason the new lawn gets too much water then those on
the surface will have a better chance of germination, whilst if the soil is
allowed to get too dry the deeper seeds will have the advantage. My other
reason is purely aesthetic; who wants to see great footprints all over the
clean surface? The main task now is watering. The seed should not be allowed to dry out
nor is it necessary to water too deep. Little and often is the key. As the
grass develops, I will cut down on the frequency of watering but increase
the quantity to encourage the roots to grow deeply into the soil. Getting water onto the lawn is a whole subject in itself, which I will discuss next month. |
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